![]() Your last dirt plugs will stay in the tines, so I recommend cleaning it out between uses to help prevent eventual rust. Two additional notes from what I’ve experienced so far in my testing. If you’re doing an entire yard, I think you’ll find that to be a lot of work (and stomping) with a small tool like this. But I don’t think it’s as effective for large areas. It’s easy to use and convenient to bust our for patches you want to touch up. The Berry & Bird Care Aeration Tool is ideal for small areas of your lawn. You’ll also need to do some waggling and pulling to get it loose if it gets stuck in firmer soil.Īnd this, in my opinion, illustrates the best use case for this tool. The upside is that the pulled plugs leave more space to get water & nutrients to those roots. It’s not hard, but the nature of the hollow tines requires a bit more force than a solid-spike device. But do keep in mind that there is some exertion required. It’s easy to get up close to edges and whatnot. I like the size of the Berry & Bird Lawn Coring Aerator Tool for hitting those small areas like bare spots around my landscaping. Berry & Bird does recommend that you soak the work areas for better performance. Here the ground is damp and much softer, and the aerator punches through with ease. I’m also hitting some other spots that have been overgrown with ground cover so that I can get some seed in there. My manager is out there checking my work. This area is very dry, and required some extra stomping to get the holes punched where I wanted them. Here I’m aerating those bare spots in my backyard for seeding and deep watering later. The ergonomics are fairly straightforward, with a long handle and the foot plate designed to reduce fatigue. I could not find any obvious flaws in the welds or assembly. There’s nothing to complain about in the general design. Enter the Berry & Bird Lawn Coring Aerator! I’m also trying to get grass to grow in some of the high-traffic areas around my patio. I do have a lawn service that aerates my lawn with a machine, but that thing can’t get into tight corners. That’s just about everything you need to know! Simple construction, solid components, and an ergonomic design are built for long-term use. Those plugs will eventually work their way back into your soil. But you had better lift the 3 point before attempting any turns or trouble is assured.As you continue to work, the excess soil plugs get pushed up through the top of the tines. I typically wait until someone has irrigated or we have had a good rain before I aerate as it cores much better that way. I normally aerate nearly 20 acres in lawns which are about 1.5 acres each to 2.5 acres each, so I have quite a bit of practice at how to operate it correctly.Actually, the aerator pretty much drives the tractor straight in the process. Do yourself a huge favor and drive straight.īottom line, you can turn, but it comes with a high price of damage to both the lawn and the aerator. I suppose you could do it, but it would tear the plugs out sideways and it also will bend the spoons sideways in a curved pattern. That's one of the reasons why I always mark all sprinkler heads with paint circles and I also aerate and then cross aerate at 90 degrees in the areas where I did have to go around objects, sometimes I do it with the entire lawn.īut if you think you can turn any "meaningful" amount such as 45 degrees or more, you are kidding yourself. ![]() You can turn about 15 degrees but no more, so you can somewhat drive around obstructions such as sprinkler heads, etc. ![]()
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